Wednesday, September 11, 2013

Book Review: The Black Woman’s guide to Beautiful Hair by Dr. Lisa Akbari


I want to know more about hair, what it is, how it grows, etc. A more scientific look into my kinky, coily hair type for personal enrichment; I want to know if I am actually taking care of my hair correctly with my “regimen,” is it really something that will help me to grow healthy hair as I am on my natural hair journey.
 So, I went to my local library to see if I could find a natural hair book that would lead me in that direction of gaining knowledge because ‘hey’ there is a lot of stuff out here on the web: YouTube, Natural Forums, natural blogs that offer a lot of information; which is awesome.
 But I really wanted to know why I was keeping my hair moisturized every 3 days or making sure that I clarify my scalp every 2 weeks besides the obvious: I saw it on YouTube (from a person who has awesome hair), and had to find my version of care, usually through trial and error until I found the combo that worked for me.
But was my hair actually getting the care that it needed? That is the question I want an answer for. I know I must be doing something right because my hair has grown from 2-3 inches back in 2011 to 7 – 10 inches back in July.
 
So that was about 5 to 7 inches of growth in 2 years; which is awesome, but according to Dr. Akbari our hair grows a ½ inch per 4 weeks; so with that being said (and of course it is established that everyone hair grows differently—there’s not an exact science on how you grow hair out your own head…lol.)
I figure that I have had growth that equals up to 1 year’s worth of hair measured in inches *(the formula used here to get this is my interpretation from the information I obtained from reading Dr. Akbari’s book; and I am not saying that this is exactly the way she measures, but my personal take on how I determined my rate of hair growth from reading her book.)
Formula: ½ inch per 4 weeks; 4 weeks equal 1 month—give or take; 12 months per year; therefore, 12 x 0.5=6.
Now, I would be lying if I say that don’t sting a bit, but it definitely doesn’t mean that I am defeated or disappointed in my lovely coils because that is far from the truth. I feel after reading this book more enthusiastic, educated, and positive that I can definitely grow my hair healthy. So to get back to the quest for knowledge I go; I believe that the reason I don’t have the total 12 inches growth that I should have by year two is because I wasn’t retaining the length of my hair; it was breaking off because I haven’t always handle my ends with the most care; actually I think I began to care for them correctly some time in the Spring of 2012.
Reading “The Black Woman’s Guide to Beautiful Hair” I have learned that it is important to have a clean scalp as well as hair, and to be sure my kinky (4c) hair is well moisturized (which you all know I do that), but I also learned that my hair type isn’t the same as my hair texture.
·        My hair type is kinky—(4c, which Dr. Akbari don’t use in her book, she just refers as “kinkier” hair type) is a type of hair that coils up on its self making that cotton bushy hair type
·        My hair texture is classified as fine, medium, and course. Mine is between fine and medium, meaning my hair strands are small and average in diameter; and because of that my hair has smaller to medium cuticles layers on the outer part of my hair strand. So a lot heat isn’t a good thing for my hair at all.
·        There are two layers to your scalp: the outer layer, which is called the epidermis that is thick skin that covers the more sensitive layer of your scalp; this outer layer is also where the mouth of the hair follicles are and at the mouth (the little pin holes) is the only part of the hair follicle that is ever exposed. Now the inner layer of the scalp that is under the epidermis (outer layer) is called the dermis (inner layer); this inner layer actually house the hair follicles, and is also where the sebaceous glands, (which produces sebum—natural oil type substance), and where the sweat glands are located.
·        I another thing learned is that there are 3 layers to your hair strand: (1) cuticle (outer layer) which effects the porosity level, as well as protect and cover the second inner layer of the hair strand; (2) cortex (second layer that’s where hair color pigmentation determination is as well as the determination of if your hair is straight or kinky—this layer is effected when applying permanent hair dyes or relaxers); and (3) medulla, which is the most inner protein hollow layered area of the hair strand.
·        I also learned there are 3 parts along the length of your hair strand: the root that is actually located in the dermis (inner) layer of the scalp under the epidermis (outer) layer; the hair shaft, which is the length of the hair itself (the strand); and the ends, which is the farthest from the scalp and the oldest hair on your head (and I knew that.)
·        Not only did Dr. Akbari cover the hair care and provide a regimen, (or to be more specific she provides the tools for you to create your own regimen) for both natural hair; but also for those of my sister who are still relaxing (perming) their hair because as she stated your natural state of your hair may be kinky, and even if you perm; you still have kinky hair that is being chemically altered and needs to be care for properly.
I could go on and on, but I won’t. I really enjoyed reading this book and even though it was written back in 2002 it is still relevant I believe.
So I recommend this book for anyone, who is either newly natural or have been natural for a while; and wants to get a better understanding on our natural hair and the specific needs it may have.


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